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Blue refabric / GL3 Selvedge Denim Type 1 Jacket
This jacket uses Blue refabric's selvedge denim, developed over approximately two and a half years, to create a classic 1st Type denim jacket.
Careful attention was given to the combination of warp and weft yarns, with the fabric slowly woven on a vintage GL3 shuttle loom developed around half a century ago. By minimizing finishing processes that would normally make the fabric more uniform, the denim retains a rugged, richly textured character with a depth and irregularity that set it apart from the uniform appearance of modern denim.
The design follows an authentic 1st Type style, featuring a single chest pocket, front pleats, and a cinch back. The T-back construction, traditionally found mainly on larger vintage sizes, has also been intentionally incorporated across all sizes.
This jacket is not meant to be finished the day you buy it. With continued wear, fading and wear marks gradually develop, creating a character that is uniquely your own. Enjoy the distinctive pleasure of watching the denim evolve with every wear.
indigo
indigo
Blue refabric
Built around a commitment to high-quality Japanese fabrics and dependable craftsmanship.
For many years, the project was produced as a ROCOCO-exclusive line with Japan Blue Jeans, before being relaunched in 2026 under the name "Blue refabric."
Production is centered around partner factories of JAPAN BLUE Co.,Ltd. The name combines "Blue," representing Japanese denim, with "Refabric," a coined term blending Republic and Fabric. Under the image of a "Blue Republic," the brand respects Japan's proud textile culture while creating clothing that brings out the individuality of the wearer.
Centered mainly on premium denim from Okayama Prefecture, each piece is carefully made at trusted factories in Japan. The brand pursues minimal yet distinctive design that highlights the natural texture and character of the fabric.
From Japan to the world. Blue refabric presents a new standard inspired by Japan's rich textile heritage.
Its Irregularity Is Exactly What Makes This Denim Special
The warp uses substantial Zimbabwe cotton yarn, while the weft is made from a yarn spun from a proprietary blend of several American cottons.
Slow weaving on the GL3 creates irregular texture across the surface, while the uneven character of the weft becomes even more apparent when viewed from the reverse side. When the hems are rolled up, the rugged character of the fabric becomes a subtle visual accent.
The fabric is also finished with as little post-processing as possible, avoiding treatments such as singeing, sanforizing, and anti-twist processing that would normally make the cloth more uniform. Woven at approximately 14.7oz, the fabric is made into the finished garment and then given a one-wash treatment, allowing it to shrink and develop a dense, substantial feel equivalent to roughly 15oz.
Because the fabric intentionally retains its natural irregularities from the start, the raised areas gradually fade with wear, creating a unique character for each wearer. Rather than being complete when new, this is denim designed to evolve with wear and become truly your own.
The design is based on the 1st Type, widely considered the original denim jacket design.
A single flap chest pocket is placed on one side of the front, while vertical pleats run through the center. By keeping the overall design intentionally simple, the irregular texture of the fabric and the stitching details stand out beautifully.
Orange-toned stitching adds a striking accent against the deep indigo. Without distracting from the rugged character of the fabric, it adds subtle definition to the workwear-inspired design.
Open the front placket and the selvedge edge becomes visible on the inside. Normally hidden from view, this subtle detail reveals itself when you put on or take off the jacket, offering a quiet reminder of the vintage shuttle loom used to weave the fabric.
A "COLLECT DENIM HEADS / Japan Blue Co., Ltd." label is placed inside.
It indicates that the jacket was produced at a partner factory of Japan Blue Co., Ltd.
The back features a T-back construction, with the fabric joined along a center seam. In vintage garments, this detail was mainly found on larger sizes due to fabric width limitations, but this model incorporates it across all sizes.
This means you can enjoy the distinctive back design in every size. While the front retains the clean, simple look of a classic 1st Type jacket, the center seam adds character from behind, making it a detail vintage enthusiasts will appreciate.
The cuffs feature button closures, maintaining the authentic construction of a classic denim jacket. A cinch back at the waist allows you to adjust the fit for a more personalized silhouette.
The silhouette is based on the clean, shorter length characteristic of the 1st Type, with enough room to avoid clinging too closely to the body.
While retaining the classic atmosphere of a denim jacket, the proportions are balanced to pair easily not only with slim trousers but also with wide-leg pants.

SIZE
※Check out the size guide for more accurate measurements.
Staff comment
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●Staff Height / Weight: 165cm / 64kg Size Worn: 38 Body Type: Slim (Narrow Shoulders) Fit: True to Size Length: Short Both the shoulders and body fit true to size. When paired with a T-shirt or lightweight cut-and-sewn top, it creates a clean, streamlined fit. The slightly cropped length works especially well with wide pants and creates the impression of a higher waistline. |
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●Staff Height / Weight: 171cm / 70kg Size Worn: 40 Body Type: Regular Fit: True to Size Length: Just Right The overall fit is true to size. There is no tightness around the shoulders or body, and it can be worn comfortably over a T-shirt or shirt. It is a good size for those who prefer a clean, neat fit. |
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●Staff Height / Weight: 177cm / 73kg Size Worn: 42 Body Type: Regular Fit: True to Size Length: Just Right Size 42 fits perfectly through both the shoulders and body. The length sits neatly around the waist, creating a clean appearance while retaining the rugged character expected from denim. |
SPEC
| Materials | Main fabric: 100% cotton / Leather patch: Cowhide |
|---|---|
| Country of Origin | JAPAN |
| Model Wearing | Wearing size 42(177cm/70kg) |
| Care Instructions | ※Please note that the colours may look different from the real thing depending on your monitor environment. |
| Weight | 1000g |
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