Discover Niche
This monthly feature is shaped by our community’s curiosity.
Curated by Haku, Discover Niche spotlights Japanese brands and makers we believe are worth knowing, selected for their craftsmanship, ideas, and thoughtful approach to making things.
Buzz Rickson’s
Buzz Rickson’s is a Japanese brand globally recognized for its faithful reproductions of U.S. military flight jackets. Built on uncompromising research and original specifications, each piece preserves the history, function, and detail of American military wear.
Origins rooted in postwar Japan
The brand’s roots trace back to the 1940s, during the Allied Occupation of Japan, with a trading company called Kosho Shoji. In postwar Ginza, American servicemen sought souvenirs representing their overseas experience. Kosho Shoji responded by producing embroidered jackets based on familiar American silhouettes. Due to material shortages, acetate fabric was used, while artisans in Kiryu and Ashikaga executed intricate embroidery.
These jackets later became known as Sukajan, now recognized as one of Japan’s earliest original Western-style garments.
A legacy of supplying the U.S. military
By the 1950s, Kosho Shoji supplied nearly 95% of souvenir jackets sold at PX stores on U.S. military bases worldwide.
This legacy continues today under Tailor Toyo, which has produced Sukajan jackets for over fifty years. These decades of direct connection to U.S. military culture formed the foundation for an uncompromising approach to authenticity.
From Toyo Enterprises to Buzz Rickson’s
In 1965, former Kosho Shoji member Susumu Kobayashi founded Toyo Enterprises, focusing on garments for U.S. military personnel and military surplus distribution.
This experience later led to Sugar Cane, dedicated to authentic American workwear. During Japan’s vintage boom of the late 1980s, Sugar Cane’s flight jacket reproductions gained strong recognition, leading to the launch of Buzz Rickson’s in 1993.
Why Buzz Rickson’s still matters
Buzz Rickson’s does not reinterpret military garments. Each piece is grounded in its original function, construction, and historical context.
From materials and hardware to stitching and labeling, nothing is left to approximation. This commitment has earned lasting respect among military historians, collectors, and enthusiasts worldwide.
Why Haku Chose This Brand
We selected Buzz Rickson’s for its clarity of purpose.
- Built strictly from original military specifications
- Historically grounded, not trend-driven
- Craftsmanship that prioritizes function over reinterpretation
